{"id":11165,"date":"2016-02-29T21:44:34","date_gmt":"2016-02-29T20:44:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/maimoni.cafeblog.hu\/?p=11165"},"modified":"2016-02-29T21:44:34","modified_gmt":"2016-02-29T20:44:34","slug":"amikor-tarolt-a-dobostorta","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sutismoni.hu\/?p=11165","title":{"rendered":"Amikor tarolt a dobostorta"},"content":{"rendered":"

1884 a meglepet\u00e9sek \u00e9ve volt a magyar cukr\u00e1sziparban \u2013 der\u00fcl ki Zsemley Oszk\u00e1r: A magyar s\u00fct\u0151-, cukr\u00e1sz- \u00e9s m\u00e9zeskal\u00e1csos ipar t\u00f6rt\u00e9nete c\u00edm\u0171, 1941-ben megjelent m\u0171v\u00e9b\u0151l. Ebb\u0151l a k\u00f6nyvb\u0151l m\u00e1r t\u00f6bbsz\u00f6r id\u00e9ztem, nagyon klassz kis \u00edr\u00e1sgy\u0171jtem\u00e9ny. A Helikon Kast\u00e9lym\u00fazeum (azaz a keszthelyi Festetics-kast\u00e9ly) k\u00f6nyvt\u00e1r\u00e1ban tal\u00e1ltam, ahova b\u00e1rki elmehet kutakodni, kutat\u00f3jegyet kell venni hozz\u00e1, 1500 forint, egy h\u00f3napig \u00e9rv\u00e9nyes. K\u00f6lcs\u00f6n\u00f6zni nem lehet, csak helyben olvasni; az ember kap egy kis \u00edr\u00f3asztalt, oda \u00f6sszegy\u0171jtheti a k\u00f6nyveit, s\u0151t, ha mondjuk p\u00e1r napon bel\u00fcl vissza szeretne menni, ott is hagyhatja, a kedves k\u00f6nyvt\u00e1rosok k\u00e9szs\u00e9gesen meg\u0151rzik a kupacot. \u00c9rdemes enni- \u00e9s innival\u00f3t vinni, mert egyszer csak az ember azt veszi \u00e9szre, hogy hopp\u00e1, elillant 4-5 \u00f3ra, leesett a v\u00e9rcukorszint.<\/p>\n

\"Helikon<\/a>
Ez a k\u00f6nyvt\u00e1r m\u00fazeumi r\u00e9sze.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A fenti k\u00e9pen a k\u00f6nyvt\u00e1rnak az a r\u00e9sze l\u00e1that\u00f3, ahova a m\u00fazeuml\u00e1togat\u00f3kat viszik – a kutat\u00f3 st\u00e1tusz bennfentess\u00e9 teszi az embert, ugyanis oda egy kis titkos ajt\u00f3n kereszt\u00fcl lehet bejutni, mindig \u00e9lvezem, amikor a l\u00e1togat\u00f3k k\u00f6z\u00fcl kil\u00e9pve egyszer csak kinyitom ezt az ajt\u00f3t, \u00e9s elt\u0171n\u00f6k a szem\u00fck el\u0151l, \u00e9s \u00e9rzem a k\u00e9rd\u00e9st a leveg\u0151ben, hogy az a n\u0151 meg hova ment???<\/p>\n

Kutatni, k\u00e9rem sz\u00e9pen. Ez is egy plusz pozit\u00edvum, nem sz\u00fcks\u00e9ges tud\u00f3snak lenni, nem kell semmilyen v\u00e9gzetts\u00e9g: aki idej\u00f6n, mindenki KUTAT\u00d3. R\u00e1 van \u00edrva a jegy\u00e9re.<\/p>\n

Most pedig arr\u00f3l szeretn\u00e9k mes\u00e9lni, amit legut\u00f3bb kutattam ki: mi t\u00f6rt\u00e9nt a cukr\u00e1sziparban 1884-ben?<\/p>\n

Ebben az esztend\u0151ben az akkori meg\u00edt\u00e9l\u00e9sek szerint vakmer\u0151 v\u00e1llalkoz\u00e1sba kezdett Bauer Samu cukr\u00e1sz: az Andr\u00e1ssy \u00faton \u201eszemk\u00e1pr\u00e1ztat\u00f3an f\u00e9nyes\u201d cukr\u00e1szd\u00e1t nyitott uzsonn\u00e1z\u00f3 teremmel. K\u00fcl\u00f6nlegess\u00e9ge abban \u00e1llt, hogy ez volt Budapesten az els\u0151 olyan cukr\u00e1szda, ahol habos k\u00e1v\u00e9t, csokol\u00e1d\u00e9s k\u00e1v\u00e9t is felszolg\u00e1ltak a s\u00fctem\u00e9ny mell\u00e9. A kezdeti v\u00e1rakoz\u00e1sokkal ellent\u00e9tben Bauer v\u00e1llalkoz\u00e1sa bev\u00e1lt, \u00f3ri\u00e1si sikert aratott: divat lett Bauern\u00e9l uzsonn\u00e1zni. Egyre t\u00f6bb cukr\u00e1sz l\u00e9pett nyomdokaiba, s kezdtek k\u00e1v\u00e9t is \u00e1rulni, uzsonn\u00e1z\u00f3 termeket kialak\u00edtani \u00fczlet\u00fckben.<\/p>\n

\"a1\"<\/a>
Forr\u00e1s: huszadikszazad.hu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Szint\u00e9n 1884-ben t\u00f6rt\u00e9nt, hogy a h\u00edres Kuglernek konkurense lett: a c\u00e9g els\u0151 seg\u00e9dje, Kl\u00e9ment Lajos \u00f6n\u00e1ll\u00f3s\u00edtotta mag\u00e1t, \u00e9s a mai V\u00f6r\u00f6smarty t\u00e9ren (akkor m\u00e9g Gizella-t\u00e9rnek h\u00edvt\u00e1k), egykori f\u0151n\u00f6ke \u00fczlet\u00e9vel szemben n\u00edv\u00f3s cukr\u00e1szd\u00e1t nyitott. \u0150 azonban nem annyira s\u00fctem\u00e9nyeir\u0151l, hanem m\u0171v\u00e9szi alkot\u00e1sair\u00f3l lett h\u00edres: keze alatt a tragantmassz\u00e1b\u00f3l (ami egy gyorsan sz\u00e1rad\u00f3 porcukros-zselatinos anyag) val\u00f3s\u00e1gos m\u0171alkot\u00e1sok sz\u00fclettek. Sz\u00e1mos alkot\u00e1s\u00e1val nyert cukr\u00e1szki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1sokon, a legnagyobb elismer\u00e9st az 1896-os millenniumi ki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1son aratta le. Vad\u00e1szidill c\u00edm\u0171 szoborcsoportja olyannyira leny\u0171g\u00f6zte a ki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1st megtekint\u0151 I. Ferenc J\u00f3zsefet, hogy az uralkod\u00f3 20 percig szeml\u00e9lte elm\u00e9l\u00e1zva az alkot\u00e1st, majd mag\u00e1hoz h\u00edvatta a mestert, s szem\u00e9lyesen gratul\u00e1lt neki.<\/p>\n

M\u00e9g egy jelent\u0151s esem\u00e9nyr\u0151l tud\u00f3s\u00edt Zsemley Oszk\u00e1r 1884-b\u0151l: amint \u00edrja, \u201eebben az \u00e9vben estek a budapesti cukr\u00e1szdal\u00e1togat\u00f3k \u00e9s \u00e9dess\u00e9gkedvel\u0151k a dobostorta-l\u00e1zba.\u201d A cukr\u00e1szoknak felt\u0171nt, hogy egyre t\u00f6bben keresik a nevezett desszertet, s ha nem kaptak, h\u00e1t m\u00e1st sem k\u00e9rtek, tov\u00e1bb\u00e1lltak. Mivel az \u00fczletmenetnek nem tett j\u00f3t, hogy a titokzatos dobostorta receptje ismeretlen maradt a szakemberek el\u0151tt, Dobos J\u00f3zsef Kecskem\u00e9ti utcai \u00fczlet\u00e9b\u0151l vitettek maguknak a tort\u00e1b\u00f3l k\u00f3stolgatt\u00e1k, analiz\u00e1lt\u00e1k, s pr\u00f3b\u00e1lt\u00e1k kider\u00edteni, hogyan is k\u00e9sz\u00fcl. V\u00e9g\u00fcl a Wikus cukr\u00e1szda egyik kiv\u00e1l\u00f3 cukr\u00e1sza, Riedl J\u00f3zsef j\u00f6tt r\u00e1 a titok nyitj\u00e1ra, amivel nagy anyagi el\u0151nyt szerzett a Wikus-c\u00e9gnek.\"a1\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\u201eAz ifjabb cukr\u00e1szgener\u00e1ci\u00f3t bizony\u00e1ra \u00e9rdekli ez a nagy izgalmak ut\u00e1n megfejtett rejt\u00e9ly, az, hogy hogyan is k\u00e9sz\u00fclt a dobostorta? A lapok nem egyszer\u0171 pisk\u00f3ta massz\u00e1b\u00f3l voltak, hanem a k\u00e9sz pisk\u00f3ta massz\u00e1hoz m\u00e9g forr\u00f3 vajat tettek, \u00fagy, hogy az ink\u00e1bb szandmassza volt, min\u00e9lfogva a lapok finom, porhany\u00f3sak lettek. A kr\u00e9m pedig 1 kg t\u00f6r\u00f6tt cukor, 20 toj\u00e1s s\u00e1rg\u00e1ja, 2 eg\u00e9sz toj\u00e1s \u00e9s van\u00edli\u00e1s cukor; ezt \u00fagy kikeverni, hogy sima, k\u00f6nny\u0171 massz\u00e1t k\u00e9pezzen, k\u00f6zben 1 kg teavajat habosra kiverni, majd a cukorb\u00f3l \u00e9s toj\u00e1sb\u00f3l \u00e1ll\u00f3 massz\u00e1t lassan a vajba belekeverni, mi\u00e1ltal az eg\u00e9sz egy k\u00f6nny\u0171 kr\u00e9met k\u00e9pezzen, akkor a legfinomabb kaka\u00f3 hozz\u00e1ad\u00e1s\u00e1val a megfelel\u0151 sz\u00ednt kell kiverni. Ezzel a kr\u00e9mmel \u00f6t lapot \u00f6sszet\u00f6lteni. A legfels\u0151 lap vastag baracklekv\u00e1rral be lett kenve, majd cukor f\u0151zve a karamellre, ezzel a baracklekv\u00e1rral bekent fels\u0151 lapot bevont\u00e1k.\u201d<\/p>\n

B\u00e1r Zsemley Oszk\u00e1r nem teszi egy\u00e9rtelm\u0171v\u00e9, de ne gondolj\u00e1tok, hogy ez a tetemes mennyis\u00e9g\u0171 kr\u00e9m egyetlen dobostorta bet\u00f6lt\u00e9s\u00e9re szolg\u00e1lt \u2013 ha \u00edgy lett volna, Dobos C. J\u00f3zsef v\u00e9lhet\u0151en nem aratott volna akkora sikert vele\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

1884 a meglepet\u00e9sek \u00e9ve volt a magyar cukr\u00e1sziparban \u2013 der\u00fcl ki Zsemley Oszk\u00e1r: A magyar s\u00fct\u0151-, cukr\u00e1sz- \u00e9s m\u00e9zeskal\u00e1csos ipar t\u00f6rt\u00e9nete c\u00edm\u0171, 1941-ben megjelent m\u0171v\u00e9b\u0151l. Ebb\u0151l a k\u00f6nyvb\u0151l m\u00e1r t\u00f6bbsz\u00f6r … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[84],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-11165","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-ismeretterjeszto"],"yoast_head":"\nAmikor tarolt a dobostorta - S\u00fctis M\u00f3ni<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/sutismoni.hu\/?p=11165\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"hu_HU\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Amikor tarolt a dobostorta - S\u00fctis M\u00f3ni\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"1884 a meglepet\u00e9sek \u00e9ve volt a magyar cukr\u00e1sziparban \u2013 der\u00fcl ki Zsemley Oszk\u00e1r: A magyar s\u00fct\u0151-, cukr\u00e1sz- \u00e9s m\u00e9zeskal\u00e1csos ipar t\u00f6rt\u00e9nete c\u00edm\u0171, 1941-ben megjelent m\u0171v\u00e9b\u0151l. 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