{"id":8698,"date":"2014-11-14T08:00:48","date_gmt":"2014-11-14T07:00:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/maimoni.cafeblog.hu\/?p=8698"},"modified":"2014-11-14T08:00:48","modified_gmt":"2014-11-14T07:00:48","slug":"a-kugler-meg-a-zserbo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sutismoni.hu\/?p=8698","title":{"rendered":"A kugler meg a zserb\u00f3"},"content":{"rendered":"

J\u00f3zsef Attila sorait mindenki ismeri abb\u00f3l a vers\u00e9b\u0151l, amelyben arr\u00f3l \u00edr, hogy gazdag szeretne lenni, libas\u00fcltet enni, illetve m\u00e9g egyebek mellett \u201e\u00f6t forint\u00e9r kuglert venni\u201d. A Kugler n\u00e9v ezzel \u00f6r\u00f6kre be\u00e1gyazta mag\u00e1t a magyar irodalomba, ha esetleg a k\u00e9t cukr\u00e1szmester, Antal \u00e9s Henrik alkot\u00e1sai r\u00e9v\u00e9n nem maradt volna eml\u00e9kezete.<\/p>\n

De mi a kugler? Kugl\u00f3f? Kal\u00e1cs? Valamif\u00e9le torta?<\/p>\n

Nos, kezdj\u00fck a t\u00f6rt\u00e9nettel: Kugler Antal, aki m\u00e1r maga is cukr\u00e1sz fam\u00edli\u00e1b\u00f3l sz\u00e1rmazott (apj\u00e1nak, Jakabnak Sopronban volt \u00fczlete a XVIII. sz\u00e1zad v\u00e9g\u00e9n), 1847-ben Pesten nyitott cukr\u00e1szd\u00e1t a mai J\u00f3zsef n\u00e1dor t\u00e9ren. 1858-ban a boltot \u00e1tvette fia, Henrik, kib\u0151v\u00edtette, majd \u00e1thelyezte az akkori Gizella, mai V\u00f6r\u00f6smarty t\u00e9rre. Az egyik lapban m\u00e1r a nyit\u00e1s \u00e9v\u00e9ben ezt \u00edrt\u00e1k r\u00f3la: „M\u00e1ris sok el\u0151kel\u0151 t\u00e1rsas\u00e1got fogad \u00edzl\u00e9ses szalonj\u00e1ban, hol a kit\u0171n\u0151leg szolg\u00e1ltatott chinai \u00e9s orosz th\u00e9\u00e1n k\u00edv\u00fcl a theas\u00fctem\u00e9nyek egy k\u00fcl\u00f6n\u00f6s nem\u00e9vel Pesten a legjobb fagylaltot lehet enni.”A cukr\u00e1szda egyre jobban ment, ami\u00e9rt a mester meg is tett mindent: k\u00fclf\u00f6ldi tanulm\u00e1nyutakon gyarap\u00edtotta tud\u00e1s\u00e1t, \u00edgy \u00f6tv\u00f6zte csal\u00e1di hagyom\u00e1nyait az eur\u00f3pai nagyv\u00e1rosokban, k\u00f6zt\u00fck P\u00e1rizsban l\u00e1tott \u00fajdons\u00e1gokkal. A minyon (mignon) receptj\u00e9t innen hozta mag\u00e1val, s a kis s\u00fctem\u00e9nyt meg is honos\u00edtotta a Kuglerben; a pesti vend\u00e9gek hamar r\u00e1kaptak, \u00e9s minyon helyett kuglernek nevezt\u00e9k.<\/p>\n

\"a1\"<\/a>
Forr\u00e1s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

B\u00e1r az \u00fczlet vir\u00e1gzott, Kugler Henriket nyomasztotta a t\u00e9ny, hogy nincs ut\u00f3da, aki tov\u00e1bbvihetn\u00e9 a boltot. \u00c1ll\u00edt\u00f3lag egykori p\u00e1rizsi mester\u00e9t kereste meg, kit aj\u00e1nlana, aki Gerbeaud Emilt javasolta. Gerbeaud a Genffel m\u00e1ra egybe\u00e9p\u00fclt Carouge v\u00e1rosk\u00e1ban sz\u00fcletett 1854. febru\u00e1r 12-\u00e9n, apja francia cukr\u00e1sz volt. Esther Ramseyert, egy Saint-Imier-i cukr\u00e1sz \u00e9s csokol\u00e1d\u00e9gy\u00e1ros l\u00e1ny\u00e1t vette feles\u00e9g\u00fcl. Kezdetben N\u00e9metorsz\u00e1gban, Franciaorsz\u00e1gban \u00e9s Angli\u00e1ban dolgozott t\u00f6bb nagy cukr\u00e1sz\u00fczletben, majd 1879-ben Franciaorsz\u00e1gban, St. \u00c9tienne-ben nyitott \u00fczletet. Harminc\u00e9ves volt, amikor Kugler megkereste aj\u00e1nlat\u00e1val, s ekkor, azaz 1884-ben Magyarorsz\u00e1gra k\u00f6lt\u00f6z\u00f6tt. \u00c1tvette az \u00fczletet, \u00e9s rengeteg \u00faj\u00edt\u00e1st vezetett be \u2013 ugyanakkor, j\u00f3 \u00fczletemberk\u00e9nt a h\u00edres Kugler nevet m\u00e9g sok\u00e1ig megtartotta. Csak nemes, min\u0151s\u00e9gi alapanyagokat haszn\u00e1lt a k\u00e9sz\u00edtm\u00e9nyeihez, vajat, val\u00f3di finom csokol\u00e1d\u00e9t. A tiszta \u00edzeket kedvelte, nem kevert semmit: a m\u00e1lna m\u00e1lna maradt, az eper pedig eper. Kugler 25 emberrel m\u0171k\u00f6d\u0151 manufaktur\u00e1lis kis\u00fczem\u00e9t k\u00f6z\u00e9p\u00fczemm\u00e9 fejlesztette, n\u00e9h\u00e1ny \u00e9ven bel\u00fcl 100, az els\u0151 vil\u00e1gh\u00e1bor\u00fa idej\u00e9n pedig m\u00e1r 350 alkalmazottal dolgozott.<\/p>\n

Csokol\u00e1d\u00e9 mesterk\u00e9nt (chocolatier) sz\u00edvesen k\u00eds\u00e9rletezett bonbonokkal, illetve mag\u00e1val a csokival; a konyakos meggy, a csokol\u00e1d\u00e9 drazs\u00e9 \u00e9s a macskanyelv megalkot\u00e1sa az \u0151 nev\u00e9hez f\u0171z\u0151dik. \u00dczem\u00e9t csokol\u00e1d\u00e9bonbon gy\u00e1rt\u00f3 m\u0171hellyel b\u0151v\u00edtette, k\u00e9s\u0151bb csokol\u00e1d\u00e9gy\u00e1rat hozott l\u00e9tre Fium\u00e9ben, amely egyr\u00e9szt a v\u00e1mkedvezm\u00e9nyek \u00e9s olcs\u00f3 nyersanyagok miatt sz\u00e1m\u00edtott kedvez\u0151 helynek, m\u00e1sr\u00e9szt pedig a kik\u00f6t\u0151v\u00e1roson kereszt\u00fcl indulhatott be a vil\u00e1gh\u00edress\u00e9 v\u00e1lt term\u00e9kek k\u00fclkereskedelme: bonbonok, teas\u00fctem\u00e9nyek, egy\u00e9b s\u00fctik. Sz\u00e1ll\u00edtott \u00c9szak- \u00e9s D\u00e9l-Amerik\u00e1ba, s\u0151t m\u00e9g a t\u00f6r\u00f6k szult\u00e1n h\u00e1rem\u00e9be is.<\/p>\n

\"a1\"<\/a>
A Gerbeaud-h\u00e1z 1937-ben.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

H\u00edrnevet szerzett a magyar cukr\u00e1sziparnak, term\u00e9keivel arany\u00e9rmet nyert az 1898, majd az 1900-as vil\u00e1gki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1son. Ennek elismer\u00e9sek\u00e9nt kapta meg a magyar Ferenc-J\u00f3zsef rendet \u00e9s a francia Becs\u00fcletrendet.<\/p>\n

1919-ig minden nap maga is ott dolgozott az \u00fczletben, m\u00edg november 9-\u00e9n meghalt. Az egyik korabeli napilap \u00edgy \u00edrt r\u00f3la:<\/p>\n

\"a1\"<\/a>
Gerbeaud Emil. Forr\u00e1s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201eAz embereknek abb\u00f3l a k\u00fcl\u00f6n\u00f6s, nagyszer\u00fc fajt\u00e1j\u00e1b\u00f3l val\u00f3 volt, amelyik teremteni, alkotni \u00e9pp ugy tud, mint a megvetett alapokon tov\u00e1bb \u00e9piteni. Cukr\u00e1sz volt s a csal\u00e1dj\u00e1ban \u00f6r\u00f6kletes mesters\u00e9get a m\u00fcv\u00e9szetig emelte. Amikor harminch\u00e9t \u00e9vvel ezel\u0151tt \u00e1tvette a Kugler \u00fczlet\u00e9t, senki sem ismerte franci\u00e1s nev\u00e9t, ma b\u00fcszk\u00e9k vagyunk re\u00e1, hogy a sors szesz\u00e9lye a magyar f\u0151v\u00e1rosba hozta \u00e9s gyermekkori dadog\u00e1saink k\u00f6zepette m\u00e1r ismert\u00fck ezt a sz\u00f3t: Zserb\u00f3.\u201d<\/p>\n

Gerbeaud Emil hal\u00e1la ut\u00e1n feles\u00e9ge ir\u00e1ny\u00edtotta a c\u00e9get (aki m\u00e9g 84 \u00e9vesen is reggel 9-t\u0151l este 9-ig az \u00fczletben tart\u00f3zkodott, biztos\u00edtand\u00f3 a magas sz\u00ednvonalat). Azt\u00e1n, az \u00fczletet 1949-ben \u00e1llamos\u00edtott\u00e1k, \u00e9s hossz\u00fa hanyatl\u00e1sra \u00edt\u00e9lt\u00e9k, amelynek \u00e9vtizedeken kereszt\u00fcl tan\u00faja lehetett a bet\u00e9r\u0151 vend\u00e9g.<\/p>\n

A \u201990-es \u00e9vekben \u00faj tulajdonosa lett az \u00e9p\u00fcletnek, amely teljes fel\u00faj\u00edt\u00e1sra ker\u00fclt, minden szempontb\u00f3l meg\u00fajult, s \u00fajra m\u00e9lt\u00f3 lett a vil\u00e1gh\u00edr\u0171 n\u00e9vhez.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

J\u00f3zsef Attila sorait mindenki ismeri abb\u00f3l a vers\u00e9b\u0151l, amelyben arr\u00f3l \u00edr, hogy gazdag szeretne lenni, libas\u00fcltet enni, illetve m\u00e9g egyebek mellett \u201e\u00f6t forint\u00e9r kuglert venni\u201d. A Kugler n\u00e9v ezzel \u00f6r\u00f6kre … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[84],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8698","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-ismeretterjeszto"],"yoast_head":"\nA kugler meg a zserb\u00f3 - S\u00fctis M\u00f3ni<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/sutismoni.hu\/?p=8698\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"hu_HU\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"A kugler meg a zserb\u00f3 - S\u00fctis M\u00f3ni\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"J\u00f3zsef Attila sorait mindenki ismeri abb\u00f3l a vers\u00e9b\u0151l, amelyben arr\u00f3l \u00edr, hogy gazdag szeretne lenni, libas\u00fcltet enni, illetve m\u00e9g egyebek mellett \u201e\u00f6t forint\u00e9r kuglert venni\u201d. 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